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Trip blogs from: Brazil: Pantanal and the Atlantic Mountains

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TitleDay 1: Coxipó and São Gonçalo Beira-Rio
At 2 a.m., I arrive at the Fazenda Mato Grosso hotel. It is pleasantly warm at 28 degrees in the middle of the night. The next morning, a few hours later, I amuse myself with birds in the garden. I know most of the species, but there are also three new ones. The garden is not large, but you can easily walk around the surrounding area. When I walk around a bit more in the afternoon, I find few birds left. I can imagine that they find 38 degrees quite warm in the sun. It is, however, a very suitable hotel for working on jet lag.
Date:2026-08-28
TitleDay 2: Coxipó and Grande Terceiro
The guide picks me up at 9:00 for the drive to the next hotel: Pousada Currupira. It is a beautiful, informal hotel on large grounds. For the group trip, BirdingBreaks arranged a trip to a harpy eagle nest, where one chick is waiting for food from the parents. The hotel is close to that hotel.
A harpy eagle is one of the largest birds of prey. The chick is fed in the nest for at least 8 months. First literally in the nest, and later in the trees surrounding the nest. Until the 14th month, the chick receives hunting lessons and food. After that, he or she (it was a she) has to fend for themselves. A harpy eagle pair has a maximum of one chick every 2 years. Besides the harpy eagle, we also saw quite a few new species around the lodge.
Date:2026-08-29
TitleDay 3: Guia, Rosário Oeste
Today, I first walked around the grounds of our hotel, the Pousada Currupira. There are many blackbirds and other black birds that I wouldn't be able to identify without a guide. The young harpy eagle has moved to another tree nearby, but she is returning to her own tree. She is also practicing in the tree, performing flying jumps from branch to branch. While waiting for a parent, we entertained ourselves with a trogon and a very beautiful woodpecker. After lunch at the hotel, we took a detour to the hotel in Cuiaba, where we met the other birdwatchers.
Date:2026-08-30
TitleDay 4: Cuiabá, Mato Grosso
Day 5 is the fifth day since my departure from Amsterdam. For the BirdingBreaks group, it is the 2nd day, so the first day for birding. We are heading north to a hotel for the first few days. The hotel is situated much higher (830 m) than Cuiaba (150 m). In the afternoon, we go to a very beautiful gorge that ends in a high rock face with a waterfall. But as birders, we are going for the parrots flying in front of the rock face. With more time and better fitness, it is also a beautiful hiking area.
Date:2026-08-31
TitleDay 5: Cuiabá, Mato Grosso
Today we drove and walked through the cerrado. The cerrado is a South American form of savanna, mostly consisting of low, dry forests interspersed with vast grasslands. We are going to explore the cerrados under threatening skies. During the walks, we spot a pheasant cuckoo, a bird that is not often seen. Unfortunately, it rained us out. According to the guide, rain in September is very unusual. The group did another afternoon loop, but I rested.
Date:2026-09-01
TitleDay 6: Chapada dos Guimarães, Mato Grosso
On birding trips, we often visit people who have created a beautiful garden or small park, where it is pleasant to spend time. For the birds, because there is something to forage, and for people, because the birds are somewhat more accessible. Mario is such a passionate man. We saw many beautiful birds, and the Ornate hawk-eagle circling low overhead was very special.
Date:2026-09-02
TitleDay 7: Pousa Alegre, Poconé
We leave the mountains north of Cuiaba and drive into the Pantanal. The surroundings are immediately very different: from a landscape with beautiful mountains and gorges, we arrive at a virtually flat area. At least, that is how it seems, but the altitude as we drive in is about 150 meters above sea level, and 100 meters by the end of our journey. We are there during the dry season, which means the birds are close to waterholes. As a photographer, that is nice. We are immediately treated to birds new to me, such as the Plumbeous ibis and various guan species.
Date:2026-09-03
TitleDay 8: Pouso Alegre, Poconé
Last night we arrived at the Pousa Alegre lodge. For the next few days, we will be driven around in open cars. A bit like in Africa, but here you can just get out: there are no dangerous animals. It is also nice that the terrain is quite flat; it is not as bumpy as in South Africa or Tanzania with potholes in the dirt roads. Today we are already seeing many of the special animals of the Pantanal, including tapirs, pigs (White-lipped peccaries), and capybaras. As you can see, we have seen a lot of species!
Date:2026-09-04
TitleDay 9: Aymara Lodge and Pouso Alegre
In the morning, we first go to the Alegre Lodge in search of new species. The most beautiful is the Black-throated Woodpecker. A few dozen kilometers further south, we go to another lodge: Aymara Lodge. This one looks nicer than the previous one. I have nesting macaws outside my window. Some of the birds are different species again. There are fewer pools at this lodge.
Date:2026-09-05
TitleDay 10: Aymara Lodge, Poconé
The location is very productive. We walk and drive through the area with the guide. There is a wide variety of birds that are special to me: parrots, woodpeckers, mouse woodpeckers, and trogons. We find many new birds again, including the small and very beautiful manakin.
Date:2026-09-06
TitleDay 11: Aymara and Porto Três Irmãos
We leave the lodge in the northern half of the Pantanal and head to the end of the road. We are taken by speedboat to the Jacaré Houseboat, where we are taken around and fed for three days. From the boat, we head out into the river arms and tributaries, where we mainly hope to see jaguars. We already see the first one today. There are also many birds, of course.
Date:2026-09-07
TitleDay 12: Paiaguás and Rio Cuiaba
Our guide has been working in the wild for 30 years. In 2000, jaguars were extremely rare in the Pantanal. Since then, the government and farmers have concluded that they can earn more from tourism than from the already extensive livestock farming. The area is large enough for a lot of livestock during the dry season, but during the wet season, the farmers cannot find places for the cattle. Now, jaguars are easy to spot during the dry season because they feed on caimans. The caimans gather in the river arms where there is always water. The jaguars only have to drop onto a caiman for food for their offspring. It is not that simple, of course, but the jaguars live off the caimans during this period. The jaguars, even those with cubs, willingly show themselves to the tourists. For a mother with two cubs, as many as 30 boats quickly come to look. The jaguars observe it all calmly.
Date:2026-09-08
TitleDay 13: Porto Três Irmãos, Barão de Melgaço
We already have many photos of jaguars and otters, so today we are going in search of birds. We will still stop for a jaguar we see, but we will no longer react to a jaguar sighting at full speed with the boat. Consequently, we see more other species today and have many beautiful birds in front of our lenses. One of the most beautiful birds from Tucson, the Vermilion flycatcher, can also be found here.
Date:2026-09-09
TitleDay 14: Porto Jofre and Porto Três Irmãos
In the morning, we take two boat trips: first to a site on the mainland (accessible to cars) and then a short boat trip on the river. After lunch, a van arrives to pick us up for the last hotel: Hotel Mata Grosso. On the way, we see many birds. We also experience that it can rain.
Date:2026-09-10
TitleDay 15: Pixaim and Santa Martinha
We are spending the night at the Hotel Mato Grosso, the last stop for the group tour. After a morning spent mostly with nice parrots, a taxi picks us up for the ride to the plane. The airport is small and easy to navigate; we have plenty of time to wait. For me, the next destination is Rio de Janeiro.
Date:2026-09-11
TitleDay 16: Morro Frio, Cachoeiras de Macacu
For the past 9 days, I have been a guest at the REGUA lodge. REGUA is a non-profit that purchases land around the Guapiaçu River and (re)forests it. Additionally, they encourage and facilitate research and education. Their primary goal is to guarantee water storage and biodiversity. They own areas ranging from 35 to 2,000 meters in altitude, and their land is growing steadily as they receive donations through their English charity. Today's photos are from a walk around the small lakes on their property.
Date:2026-09-12
TitleDay 17: Morro Frio and Areal
The guide drives me around in a classic Toyota. The model dates from the post-World War II era; these cars were manufactured in Brazil between 1958 and 2001. I thought it was a handsome car, though I found it difficult to climb into. Just like yesterday, it was a wet day—mist, haze, drizzle, and steady rain. That was no problem for the birds, and the guide knew exactly where to go to find them.
Date:2026-09-13
TitleDay 18: unknown
So much rain is forecast for today that no excursion is being planned. I am entertaining myself with the photos I have. This blog serves mainly as a reminder that I indeed did not photograph any birds that day.
Date:2026-09-14
TitleDay 19: Jardim Meudon and Meudon
Today we drove up to the Three Peaks Park. The entrance was at about 1,000 meters, and the highest peak is 2,366 meters high. The birds seemed accustomed to the mist; eventually, there was some activity. But we mostly walked in the mist, which was clearly visible in the photos. Fortunately, you can use the computer to make the fog dissipate a little.
Date:2026-09-15
TitleDay 20: Morro do Mosa and Galdinópolis
Today, the owner of Regua is driving me around. He maintains his contacts, picks up a few things, and takes us to the Itororo Lodge. It is a beautiful little area where they have many feeding stations. Due to the altitude, 1200 meters, we have partially different species again.
Date:2026-09-16
TitleDay 21: Campo Redondo and Gamboa
Today there is a new guide, who works very systematically. He makes a list of all the species I haven't seen yet, hundreds of them. He concludes that he can find as many as 50 new species for me. That seems impossible to me, and indeed it turns out to be. He does find a rare mountain antwit. Both the male and female show themselves.
Date:2026-09-17
TitleDay 22: Guapiaçu and Morro Frio
The guide has to divide his attention today: with me in the morning, and with another client in the afternoon. It will be a drive in the neighborhood, with the usual new birds. That is this man's specialty, I think. There are a great many different species. Sometimes the male and female are equally colorful, but often the females are brownish. That makes it difficult for me to tell them apart.
Date:2026-09-18
TitleDay 23: Morro Frio, Cachoeiras de Macacu
Today was a rest day. That provides the opportunity to start with the very large quantities of photos. So, few new photos today.
Date:2026-09-19
<a href="/trips/brazil2026/biota/animalia/chordata/aves/passeriformes/tyrannidae/arundinicola leucocephala/arundinicola leucocephala-en.html">Arundinicola leucocephala</a> / White‑headed marsh tyrant / Witkopwatertiran
TitleDay 24: Morro Frio, Cachoeiras de Macacu
On Sunday morning there was a guide, but no car. We took a walk around the grounds at REGUA, but that didn't yield much. At 4 p. m. , we left for Rio de Janeiro airport. The airport is very large, but the care for disabled passengers is excellently organized: you receive personal assistance from the check-in counter to the aircraft door.
Date:2026-09-20